Models · Nissan
Nissan Skyline GT-R R32 buying guide
The car that revived the GT-R name, built from 1989 to 1994 with the twin-turbo RB26DETT straight six, ATTESA E-TS four-wheel drive and HICAS rear-wheel steering. Nearly all UK cars are Japanese imports, and good ones reward careful checking.
The versions
- 2.6 twin-turbo straight six (RB26DETT), officially 276bhp, with timing belt drive to the camshafts
- Five-speed manual gearbox
- ATTESA E-TS four-wheel drive, normally rear driven with up to half the torque sent to the front; Super HICAS rear-wheel steering
- Two-door coupé with an aluminium bonnet and front wings; a genuine GT-R chassis number starts BNR32
What to check on a R32 GT-R
3 model-specific things to look at when you view one. They're a starting point, not the full inspection.
Oil pressure, idle and revving
What to look for: With the engine warm, watch the oil pressure gauge. Expect around 2 bar at idle, rising to around 4 bar with revs, and roughly 10psi per 1,000rpm as a rule of thumb. Pressure that doesn't rise with revs is the thing to note. Ask about the oil pump and its drive.
Why it matters: Failure of the oil pump drive is a known RB26 fault that can do serious damage. Nissan revised it from February 1993, but that doesn't guarantee a given car has the later part. A leaking pump backing plate is also common. The pressure sender is known to be unreliable, so a low reading needs confirming with a proper gauge.
The turbochargers
What to look for: On the drive, the engine should pull smoothly and strongly as boost builds, with no roughness across the rev range. Look for smoke when the boost comes in, and ask whether a boost controller has been fitted or the turbos rebuilt or replaced.
Why it matters: The standard turbos have ceramic turbine wheels that are brittle. Raising the boost above the standard level, around 0.7 to 0.8 bar, or regular trips to the rev limiter can break a wheel. Many cars have had turbos rebuilt with steel turbines or replaced, which is a good thing to see in the paperwork.
Rust in the arches, sills and rear screen
What to look for: Look closely at the rear wheel arches, the area in front of and behind the rear wheels, the rear of the sills, the jacking points underneath, the front strut tops and the lower edge of the rear screen. Lift the boot floor and carpets to check for damp. Be cautious of heavy fresh underseal.
Why it matters: These cars weren't undersealed in Japan, and UK roads speed up corrosion. Shrunk rear screen seals let water collect at the base of the rear pillars. Bent jacking points from careless lifting then rust. A car with a clean, dry underside has usually been looked after.
Also in the full guide
- Four-wheel drive and HICAS warning lights
- The cold start, test drive and paperwork checks for the exact version you're viewing
The full guide to the R32 GT-R
The CrankSight guide walks you round the car on your phone at the viewing, with every check for the exact version you're looking at: what to look for, where to find it, and what anything you find is likely to cost. As you go it builds an assessment of that car, and if you view more than one, it lines them up side by side.
£29 for the model, used on as many cars as you like, delivered within 72 hours or your money back.
Other generations
General points for the model, last checked October 2026. Every car is different, so treat this as a guide to what to look at, not a verdict on any car. CrankSight is independent and has no connection with Nissan.