Models · Nissan
Nissan Skyline GT-R R33 buying guide
The second of the modern Skyline GT-Rs, on sale from 1995 to 1998 with the twin-turbo RB26DETT, four-wheel drive and Super HICAS rear-wheel steering. Around 100 V-Spec cars came to the UK officially, and many more arrived as personal imports.
The versions
- 2.6 twin-turbo straight six (RB26DETT), 280PS (276bhp), timing belt driven
- Five-speed manual gearbox
- ATTESA E-TS four-wheel drive, normally rear driven with the front axle engaged as needed, plus Super HICAS rear-wheel steering
- Standard and V-Spec coupés; around 100 V-Specs were sold officially in the UK
- Nismo 400R with a 2.8 engine, built in very small numbers and not covered here
What to check on a R33 GT-R
3 model-specific things to look at when you view one. They're a starting point, not the full inspection.
Cold-start knocks and breather vapour
What to look for: Ask for the engine to be cold when you arrive and listen for any knock as it starts. If it's quiet, look for oil vapour from the breather pipe between the cam covers, with the seller's permission. Check the history for oil changes at least every 6,000 miles.
Why it matters: A cold-start knock is a warning sign on the RB26. Too much oil held in the cylinder head can starve the sump, leading to spun bearings, and vapour from the breather points to wear. R33s have a better oil pump drive than R32s. Regular oil changes with good-quality oil are what keep these engines healthy.
The turbochargers
What to look for: On the drive, the boost should come in cleanly and the car should pull strongly. Listen for rumbling, whistling or metallic noises under boost and look for blue or grey smoke under load. Ask whether the turbos are original.
Why it matters: The standard turbos have ceramic turbine wheels that over-revving or detonation can break off their shafts, and about 1 bar of boost is treated as the safe limit with them. Their bearings also wear with age. Turbos with metal wheels are a common upgrade, so replacement paperwork from a known specialist is a good sign.
Strut tops, jacking points and boot floor
What to look for: Open the bonnet and look at the tops of the front suspension turrets for bubbling or bulging. From underneath, check the jacking points for crushing. Lift the boot floor to check for damp, and look along the rear wheel arches and sills.
Why it matters: Rust protection of the era was poor. Water gets trapped in the strut tops and rusts them from the inside, and repairs can return. Failed boot seals let water into the boot floor, and crushed jacking points rust and need structural repair. A car with clean turrets and a dry boot has usually been looked after.
Also in the full guide
- Gearbox synchros
- The cold start, test drive and paperwork checks for the exact version you're viewing
The full guide to the R33 GT-R
The CrankSight guide walks you round the car on your phone at the viewing, with every check for the exact version you're looking at: what to look for, where to find it, and what anything you find is likely to cost. As you go it builds an assessment of that car, and if you view more than one, it lines them up side by side.
£29 for the model, used on as many cars as you like, delivered within 72 hours or your money back.
Other generations
General points for the model, last checked October 2026. Every car is different, so treat this as a guide to what to look at, not a verdict on any car. CrankSight is independent and has no connection with Nissan.